So here it is, the book that came out of the website
bigdeadplace.com that had been discussed and listed on this blog some time ago. In short, the book is a compilation of several summer and winter periods that the author spent at McMurdo Station, the US research station and logistics hub in the Ross Sea.
Readers get an intimate view on the daily life of "the grunt", i.e. the contract worker that is employed in the logistics, maintenance, and service departments of such a station. The most prominent aspects discussed by the author are not the spectacular natural setting, the hardships of low temperature, high winds, extended periods of isolation or the glorious progress of scientific studies carried out at the station; in fact, any of these facets of Antarctic life are only briefly acknowledged as they undoubtedly exist, but that is not what this book is about.
Instead, what you learn about in detail are the management, or rather its shortcomings, by the "service contractor" Raytheon Polar Services, the private company that is in charge of pretty much every aspect of McMurdo which is not scientific.
And at least in the life of a "grunt", or contract worker, there is the overwhelming impression of science being nothing more than a pretense under which the American presence in Antarctica can be conveniently justified, which in turn forms the base for substantial construction and shipping activities both at McMurdo and at South Pole, establishing the USAP (United States Antarctic Program) as the "biggest player" on the Antarctic poker table.
Even if you assume that the perspective of an employee washing dishes, hauling trash and servicing the housing infrastructure is inherently a different one than that of a scientist involved at the research taking place at such a location, the thoroughness with which the author presents the most hilarious but also startling shortcomings of station management has to be admired. Political correctness, management speak, and ridiculously inadequate bureaucrats populate the chapters of this book.
One could assume from this summary that the book is disappointing and bitter, negative and ignorant to the countless aspects which have drawn people's interest and fascination to Antarctica, but that assumption is wrong. Actually, the author's persistence to return to this place of work in various positions and functions for several times, summers as well as winters, speaks for itself. Also, the book is written in an explicit but incredibly funny, startling but entertaining style:
"After a few hours at my normal routine, while I was in a loader retrieving Contaminated Wood fomr the Carp Shop, I reaized theat each person that I saw would be here for at least until the first Winfly plane in August. Six months was not a long time, but I suddenly felt anxious.
I would be stuck in an outpost with all-you-can-eat desserts and an endless procession of theme parties. A small town where phone numbers are four digits but the budget is nine digits, where everyone had frequent flyer miles and no one had wisdom teeth... A town into which people have smuggled goldfish and where a pet snail from a head of lettuce faces execution by gouvernment mandate. A town where going outside requires authorization... A town where corpses have reportedly been stored in the food freezer and where it is illegal to collect rocks.
This was America, I realized, all in a tight little bundle. And there were no more flights out."
I can only recommend this book highly for anyone who is seriously interested in Antarctica, not only because it covers the perspective of "normal people" - as opposed to well-off cruise tourists, scientists, or politicians - and their daily lives on "The ice". It is also a good representation of Antarctic science being an international diplomatic (and sometimes not so diplomatic) playground, where staking your claims, trading favours with the neighbours, and gaining recognition and prestige are setting the agenda.
Simply a good read.
Labels: Antarctic